DIY : how to make your own framed magnet boards

So, ever since I did a post on our new playspace, OODLES of you have asked me how on earth I made the magnet boards. I briefly explained it to a few of you, but below, we have a detailed tutorial just for all you guys who were hoping for a few more instructions to lead you in the right direction to creating your own.

We’ll start with framing options: I’m sure there’s more, but there’s basically three options on frames for this project, if you plan to make your own, large and in charge. There’s always option 4: which is find your own, but the most cost effective for going large is making yours…especially if you want to make more than one…and want them all to match…

Just a side note: find your metal first. {I’m sure ya’ll are all, DUH Ashley} But that will affect your frame size. I like to make my frame covering 1/2 of an inch of my metal on all the edges. It gives me a little room for fudging when I hang it (see below) And then I usually add some fat borders, for a more dramatic appeal on the wall…I’m no good at math, so I do it like fifty times with a calculator to make sure, but this would mean the hole is one inch smaller in measurements than the piece you are framing.

You can totally get your metal on the metal aisle of home depot. Didn’t you know they have a metal aisle? Be sure to look. (that’s sarcasm, but it’s on the end of an aisle with all the metallic pieces-and I can’t remember exactly where-look for the sign) It’s a little costly, the larger you go, but its totally worth it…

1. Painted MDF {this process includes going to home depot and purchasing a larger sheet of MDF board}

2. {this is personally one of my faves:} a frame made from crown molding. {The crown molding, however, is super light weight, and cheaper, because it’s basically molded from styrofoam.} You can find this in the molding section of your local Lowe’s. It’s also surprisingly durable. I’m showing below as an example, because you can also use this tutorial to make your own giant chalkboard, as well.

3. Going with old faithful : simple planks of wood.

To make your MDF frame:

You may either use a jigsaw, or a skill saw.

Personally, I recommend practicing with this first, or shmoozing someone more knowledgeable in the cutting area of life. This entire process can be a bit complicated, so practice first. But I highly recommend this miracle tool: a string line. I could write about my frames in an entirely different post, and I’m always torn about writing on certain things that I sell, (I think you can probably see why, respectively) but the basic idea is to make your frame by cutting the overall dimensions first, and then deciding upon the hole size/location and executing it. All of this information depends on the type and size frame you wish to make, and is different with each project. This is the simplest route to go with this type of frame.

practical tip: We don’t have fancy saw horses. We simply use our ample supply of cans of paint.

Your finished product should look a little something like this:

For the following angled frames (whether using crown molding or trusty wood) you have two options for cutting:

1. a miter saw

This includes knowing how to use one, but the basic idea is to set the angle and cut.

OR my personal preference, and one most of us normal people can use unless we are hardcore and own one:

2. A miter box. A simple guide for your cutting angles. Rather than the complicated settings of a miter saw (angles and whatnots-but I won’t lie, I would love to own one) you can purchase this for around ten to seventeen dollars at your local lowes or home depot…or true value… It’s pretty simple this way. Once you cut on that angle, your angles will naturally match up when you place the pieces together to make the frame, later.

You then have the option, if you are making one of these angled frames, to brace it in the back when joining them together. I must say, perfectionists beware…It may drive you a little crazy at first.

Let me introduce you to my BFF:

Simply use your finger to shove it in the small gaps, and let it dry. Sand, and paint. Admirers of your work are none the wiser…

When people visit my home, they aren’t looking at my imperfect joints, so much as the novel idea of space reclaimed for the kitchen, as well as my super talented children’s artwork. {At least that’s what I tell myself at night when I rock myself to sleep in the corner after staring at the gaping waste of a frame for too long. WHAT?}

Okay. So now that are frames are out of the way: Let’s get to part 2, shall we?

what you’ll need for this portion:

fabric of choice: for these photos, my friend I was working with chose pinstripe fabric. Mine, as you may have seen, are patchwork. The latter option requires some sewing of basic lines…sized to your metal. But I totally pieced mine together from basic scraps of leftovers.

handy dandy old trusy. (my fave tool of all time)

Your metal. (der)

Place your fabric face down on the ground (on top of a sheet is always smart) with your metal piece centered.

keep your glue on low setting, unless you want to melt your fingers off…and a dab ‘ll do ya.

press.

The trick to this, is to gradually, and equally wrap the fabric around the metal by doing the mirrored reverse of my last action. That way the fabric is not unevenly pulled, or wompy. If you’ve ever made your own canvas, you totally know what I’m talking about…or even reupholstered anything. But this basically means if I do the left hand side, center, I will then do the right hand side center. Then the upper side, center, and the lower side, center. Basically rotating. and repeating. This fabric was a little tricky because it was striped. So be mindful of your pattern as you glue.

When you get to the corners, simply fold it into a triangle, and secure with more glue.

flip it over. Viola.

switching modes again, because my friend’s frames are not ready:

step 3: hanging.

Do you nail the metal directly into the wall? Nope. Find a nail with a large head, and with the help of a partner to guide you (make sure its STRAIGHT!) brace the metal by hammering the nails into the wall and anchoring them to the piece with the head. Each side should have at least three nails to secure it to the wall.

For mounting the frame: (this may surprise you, but for my larger pieces, this is just what I do) nail the frame directly into the wall. Hammer the nail into the front, and then from there continue through to the wall. Sorry, but when it comes to my children’s safety…It needs to be up there. REALLY up there. Simply touch up the frame with paint on the nail.

For those of you with special walls, I would recommend the styrofoam option. Why? Because just like our own styrofoam frame above, we totally hot glued it directly to the cabinet. We weren’t okay with putting nails straight through the thin back of our island. Just as your walls may be something you can’t put holes in, I recommend testing in a small, secret place first, but it’s light weight enough, and will be stuck. My only warning: hot glue isn’t adjustable once its up. You can pry it off, after it’s dry, but make sure you have it straight before you go for it.