It’s been a few months since we were oh so thrilled to share our #covidcabana and basically what we lost our everlovingminds this last spring, building in the back yard. {Check out the entire tour here!}
Covid literally made us do it. Once upon a time, the back yard looked like this.
And we changed it to this last spring/summer {minus that addition on the back, which was the fall before}
We’d been working on improving all things yard, with fencing, a dining area, landscaping, and more… but we decided to expand with our cabana. Crazy to think that when we took ownership of the house, the pool looked like this. Ew David.
And now it looks like this.
It’s crazy how much a home can shrink in the winter, when you don’t get to utilize such fun things in your yard, daily. We’re definitely ready for warmer weather. But to get geared up for an exciting spring ahead, we thought it was the perfect timing to share the cabana! Today’s first edition will be all about the foundation. So that even if you plan to build something a little bit similar, you have something to guide you. Kind of like our handmade hideaway series.
After drawing up some plans, and finalizing some measurements we were ready to get started.
But first a necessary legal disclaimer:
This is not a small piece of furniture or a simple build, but a real structure. Therefore we will not be providing building plans, but more of a guide. If you’re new to building or do not in any way feel comfortable do not attempt this project without professional guidance. This tutorial is meant to serve as a jumping-off point for someone who feels comfortable with building or has professional guidance. It is not a construction plan, nor is it to be taken as a blueprint to build. We, The Handmade Home, assume no liability if you attempt this project.
Okay. Now that the lawyers are happy, on to the build.
We spent the winter planning and revising, and this was one of our final sketches last Spring, before we started.
So when we pulled down the old shed, {we left a bit of that old fence for some privacy in the meantime} it looked like this. And like all things, we started with the foundation.
Laying the foundation correctly is essential to the rest of the build. With a few tips and a little time, anyone can do it.
The Cornerstone
You’ll want to gather some string, measuring tape, and some type of stakes.
I used tent stakes this time because it was the first thing I found.
Once you have your supplies, you’ll want to find the starting corner, or where the cornerstone will be.
Put a stake in the ground here. From there, measure out in each direction, length, and width of your structure, and place a stake on both of those measurements.
(Note: you’ll want your measurements to be 3″ shorter in each direction to accommodate for the wood we’ll be using to frame. We will be using 2 x 10’s, so that means each one is 1.5″. If you want to start your structure 2 feet from a certain object, this will mean you actually want to place your first stake 2 feet 1.5 inches from that object. Then when you pull your string, you’ll pull it 1 1/12 inch shorter.)
So if you want a 12-foot wide structure, you’ll pull the string 11 feet, and 9 inches.
Apply the Stakes
Now you’ll want to start back at your cornerstone, and at about 2-3 feet on the outside of where your stake is, place new stake with string tied to it going in both directions.
The stakes should be placed to where when the string is pulled. It will intersect at a 90 degree angle. This intersection should happen at, or very near the first stake you place. To make this intersection happen, pull the string towards the 2nd and 3rd stakes you placed.
You’ll want to pull the string 2-3 feet past where you placed the stake.
Work with the string until you make a right angle at the cornerstone.
Once you have that corner, you can pull up the 2nd and 3rd stake you set, because now you will remeasure down those sides again, and place the stake in the exact place it should go.
Then, using the string method again, make a right angle. You’ll do this on all 4 corners.
Make Sure It’s Square
Once you have all four corners set, check to make sure it’s square.
Simply measure diagonally to make sure all sides are equal, if they’re not, measure your lengths and widths to make sure they’re correct, and check your right angles. Adjust where necessary.
The Footers
Next, you’ll want to dig your footers.
But first, you need to know how many you’ll need and this is dependent on your lumber size and what it can span. This is something you want to get right, so that your structure is safe and your floor doesn’t sag. For what it’s worth, we’re always advocates for overbuilding.
Generally, you can assume that your beam will span half of its width and your joist can span 1.5 times its width. (A beam is what the floor joist will attach to.)
So a 10″ beam can span 5′ and a 10″ joist can span 15′. That’s not an exact science, but helps keep you in the range. Obviously, check a span chart to verify what you’ll need based on the lumber size and species.
Once you know how far your beam can span, mark out where you will need footers with a dot of spray paint.
Your footers should be at least 12 inches wide, and below the frost line to prevent them from rising during a cold winter. (We talk more about this in the hideaway post.)
Measure out from the center half of the original mark, the width of your footer, and mark it with spray paint in a circle. If your string was moved during the digging make sure it is placed back to where it should be so that you stay in check.
Once they’re all marked, dig your footers to the appropriate depth and pour your concrete. Make sure you buy high strength structural concrete.
After your concrete is poured, and before it’s dry, you’ll want to add one 1/2″ x 10″ anchor bolt to each footer. Make sure the bolt will not interfere with where your support post will need to go. So place it outside of the right angle and on the middle footers offset to one side.
Vapor Barriers and Base Plates
Once the footers are dry, {generally 24 hours} add your vapor barrier and base plate. The base plate is a 12″ piece of pressure-treated wood. This should fit squarely on top of your footer.
Once you’ve made sure the base plate fits, lay down your vapor barrier and tape the seams. Then place your baseplate back down and secure it with the washer and nut.
Post Base Installation
Next, you’ll want to screw in your post base. We decided to use a 4 x 4 because our front beam would rest on the base plates, and only 4 of our 5 posts of our back beam would be off the ground with the highest one only 16″ off the ground. If our structure would have been higher, I would have used a 6 x 6 for stability.
Cut some 4 x 4’s to make your post base.
If your posts are not all resting on the base plate, this can be a little tricky as you need all the posts to be level for the beam to rest on them.
The easiest way to do this, is to cut them all to a size you know is more than you need. Screw them temporarily into the base plate, then use a 2 x 4 and a level to find your level heights. It’s best to get some help with this part.
Level front to back –Also remember not only does the beam need to be level, but the front beam needs to be level with the back beam. So don’t forget to level from front to back as well.
Build Your Outside Frame
Next you’ll want to build your outside frame. We used pressure treated 2 x 10’s, and used lag bolts to secure them to the post.
As mentioned, our front beam rest on the base plates, and the 4 x 4 post are simply there to secure it to the base plate.
Add The Joist Hangers
Once your beams are up, add your joists using joist hangers that are appropriate for the size of wood you are using.
These should be on 16″ centers.
Add Stability
With all the joists in place, you’ll want to install some wood between each joist. This will add tremendous stability.
The Subfloor
Next, you’ll add 3/4 inch pressure treated plywood for your subfloor. While you can nail this down, I do recommend screws, as it will secure it better to the frame of your structure.
Finally, as you can see we added some mending plates on the backside of ours to add a little more stability, as I said I believe in overbuilding.
This concludes the first part of building a backyard cabana! Next up: the framing and walls.
Thanks so much for tuning in today, and let us know if you have any questions! Have an inspired day!
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