handmade hideaway 2.0 – adding the framing

We’ve truly been loving the new hideaway, it’s been a great little escape for the family.

Night time is really magical in the space. Fireflies and more fireflies!

If you missed the reveal post or the foundation post, be sure to check them out.

Or to keep it simple, you can find everything in our series so far, here.

Today we are going to cover framing the walls on the upper deck. Just a side note: these posts are meaty. So we’re taking you one step at a time. Be sure to read them carefully, but even though the writing seems tedious, we’re just making sure we cover all our bases. The Handmade Hideaway is actually a really fun build.

Tools you’ll need: 

• skill saw
• miter saw
• table saw (optional)
• drill
• hammer drill (optional)
• level
• carpenter’s square
• measuring tape
• mallet

Supplies you’ll need:

{We are basing this off a 10 x 12  four wall structure, your supply list could vary, so hold on to that reciept.}

• (15) 2 x 4 x 10 – pressure treated
• (11) 2 x 4 x 8- pressure treated
• (6) 2 x 4 x 12- pressure treated
• (2) 5# boxes of 3 inch deck screws
• (1) 1 x 6 x 8
• (1) 1 x 6 x 10
• (3) 1 x 2 x 8
• 5# box of 2  1/2inch deck screws
• small box of 1 1/2 inch deck screws

We choose not to have any windows or doors on the back wall, so it was the best wall to construct, first.

The back wall is 10 feet long and 5′ 3″ high, so the first thing you’ll do is take two of your 2 x 4 x 10’s and cut them to exactly 9′ 5″ in length. Place those to the side for a minute.

Now take (4) more 2 x 4 x 10’s and cut them down to (8) 60-inch sections.

Place the two 9′ 3″ sections on their side (I find it easy to do all this on the top platform.) Then starting at one end, place one 60-inch section on its side in-between the two 10-foot sections. You’ll want to square the 60-inch section up so they are on the ends of the 10-foot sections, and then screw them into place using at least (2) 3-inch screws per board on the top and bottom.

Repeat this process on the other end as well.

You’ll take the remaining 6 boards and space them evenly on the 9′ 3″ boards between the boards you just secured on each end. One by one, screw them into place. Normally you’d place these on a 16-inch center, but since our walls don’t have to carry large loads, we can fudge a little.

Now it is time to raise the wall. First, you’ll want to mark for center on the wall and on the deck so that you can line the two up once the wall is standing.

You also might want some help to get the wall up… it isn’t light and a little awkward as you put it into place. You can go ahead and secure it to the deck floor if you want, but I prefer to wait until I have other walls done. Simply stand it up and then clamp it in place. {Word of warning, do not let anyone walk underneath it until it is fastened permanently, that means you too, don’t walk under it!}

Both side walls will be identical, measuring at 8 1/2 feet long by 5′ 3″ high with a 53-inch by 32-inch high window in the center.

You’ll start by cutting one of your 2 x 10’s down to 8 1/2 feet. You’ll need to cut a 2 x 12 down to exactly 12 feet. Then cut 3 of your 2 x 10’s down to 60 inches.

Now lay out a 2 x 12 (top board) and the 2 x 8 1/2 (bottom board) on their side. Attach a 60-inch board to one end, keeping it flush. This time, however, you’ll want to attach two boards on this end and not only screw them in from top and bottom, but also use a 2 1/2 inch screw to screw them together.

Now you’ll want to center the window. Measure to the center of the wall from the inside board you just screwed, into the opposite inside board on the other end. Place a mark. Do this on the top and bottom.

From here, measure out each direction on the top board 26 1/2 inches and place a mark. On the bottom, board measure out 13 1/4 inches in each direction and place a mark.

Cut (2) 2 x 8’s into (2) 53-inch sections and (2) 21 inches.

Place two of your 60-inch boards with their inside edge with the marks you made on the 8 1/2 foot board. Then place one 53-inch board next to the top plate in between the two five foot boards.

Next, place the two 21 inch boards where you made the 13 1/4 inch marks and place the other 53 inch board on top of them.

Your window should be loosely framed. If all looks good, begin screwing it all together with 3 inch screws.

{Note: if I was putting any real weight on this wall, I would rest the horizontal boards on the vertical ones. Not screw them together, but again our roof will not carry any real weight.}

Now you can stand this wall up and place it next to the other back wall. Screw it into the decking using 2 1/2 inch screws. Also, make sure to screw the two walls together using a 2 1/2-inch screw (use at least (6) screws). You can also leave clamps on the ends that aren’t attached to another wall for stability.

Your 2 x 12’s will be hanging over until we build the porch so feel free to temporarily add in some supports.

You’ll repeat this process for the other side as well attaching the wall to the floor and the back wall once it’s built.

The front wall is pretty similar to the side walls except we will need to create space for the door.

Here’s how we laid out the front wall from facing it – going left to right:

20-inch wall, 30-inch door and another 70-inch wall with a window centered.

You’ll need to cut one 2 x 4 x 10 to 20-inches and 68 1/2 inches. These will serve as your bottom plates, {bottom boards or rat seal, whatever you want to call it.} Then you’ll cut a 2 x 4 x 10 down to 113 inches. This will be your top plate or board.

Now using 2 x 4 x 10’s cut (7) 60-inch pieces for your studs. You’ll also need to cut (2) 21-inch pieces to support your window, (6) 6-inch pieces and (2) 44-inch pieces for the top and bottom rail of your window.

Start by building the 20-inch wall without the top plate. You’ll simply screw in (2) of your 5-foot pieces on both ends of the 2o inch piece. Then take (3) of your 6-inch pieces and screw them into the left 60-inch piece. I’d place one at the bottom, in the middle and the top. Now add another 5-foot piece onto these pieces. Screw this in not only from the bottom but to each other as well. It should look like (2) 60-inch pieces sandwiching (3) 6-inch pieces. {You can also simply use a full 60-inch piece. Set this aside.}

Next, begin building the portion of the wall with the window. You will do this just as you did the other windows.

Start by screwing a 60-inch piece on each end of your 68 1/2-inch piece. On the right side, add the additional (3) 6-inch pieces and the 60-inch pieces just as you did in the previous step. Screw this in not only from the bottom but to each other as well. Now simply take your (2) 44-inch pieces and place them.

Now measure 14 inches in from the board you just screwed into place, and add another 60-inch stud. Place your (2) 44-inch pieces vertical to this piece and center your (2) 21-inch pieces underneath the bottom 44-inch piece. Place another 60-inch piece on the end of this and begin screwing it all together. Make sure everything is square, and the top 44-inch piece is level with the 60-inch pieces.

Now you can attach the top 113-inch piece, but make sure that the outermost piece of the wall lines up with the outermost edges of the top plate.

Finally, stand it up, and attach it to the flooring and the side wall.

Lastly, you’ll need to trim out the door.

You’ll start by ripping your 1 x 6’s down to 3 1/2 inches (either with your skill saw or on a table saw), then simply cut (1) 1 x 6 x 8 down to 60 1/2 inch and (1) 1 x 6 x 10 down to 60 1/2 inches and 30 inches. Attach the 30-inch piece to the top of the door frame and the 60 1/2 inch piece on the inside of the door frame.

Then cut the 1 x 2 x 8’s down to the same sizes and attach in the same manner, but set back from the front edge of the door by 1 1/4 inch. (hint: for both of these I use a finish nailer to attach them. 2 1/2 inch nail.)

view of door from the inside, framed out.

Wow, that’s a lot of info we got through there, thank you for hanging in there with me. Trust me it’s more fun and easier to build it than read it.

Just take it one step at a time and if you need to adjust here or there, you’ve got the freedom to do so.

Up next, the railing.

To see this entire series, be sure to check it out here …and as always, our fabulous reader creations, here!

 

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